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Isuzu Hitachi 4HK1 6HK1 Engine Workshop Manual

Tools & consumables
- Metric socket/set (8–24 mm), deep sockets, ratchet, extensions
- Torque wrench (capable to at least 100+ Nm)
- Open-end/flare‑nut wrenches (line/banjo sizes for hydraulic fittings)
- Combination wrenches
- Screwdrivers, pliers
- Transmission jack (or heavy-duty floor jack + gearbox support)
- Engine support bar or jack and wood block (if removing transmission)
- Clutch alignment tool (if transmission removed)
- Pry bar, hammer, drift (for stubborn parts)
- Brake/clutch hydraulic pressure bleeder or vacuum bleeder (or clear hose + bottle)
- Bench‑bleed kit (for replacement slave if required)
- Drain pan, shop rags, brake cleaner
- New brake/clutch fluid (DOT spec per Isuzu — usually DOT3/DOT4; confirm OEM)
- New slave cylinder (correct part for external or concentric type)
- New crush/banjo washers (copper/soft metal) for hydraulic fittings
- New bleeder screw (recommended) / cap
- Threadlocker (per manual), anti-seize
- Safety gear: eye protection, gloves, jack stands, wheel chocks

Safety precautions (no exceptions)
- Work on level ground, chock wheels, engage parking brake.
- Never rely on a jack only — use rated jack stands or a transmission jack.
- Support engine if transmission removal alters engine support (use engine support bar or jack under oil pan with wood block).
- Wear eye protection and gloves. Brake fluid is corrosive to paint — protect surfaces, clean spills immediately.
- Relieve any system pressure by removing reservoir cap; follow vehicle-specific procedures.
- Dispose of used fluid/parts properly.

Identify which slave type you have
- External slave cylinder: bolted to bellhousing outside — replacement is relatively straightforward.
- Concentric slave cylinder (CSC) / internal: inside bellhousing around input shaft; requires transmission removal. Inspect physically or check parts diagram/parts number to confirm before starting.

Procedure A — External slave cylinder replacement (bellhousing mounted)
1) Preparation
- Park, chock, disconnect negative battery terminal.
- Raise vehicle safely, support with jack stands. Place drain pan under bellhousing area.
- Remove any protective covers or splash shields obscuring slave.

2) Drain/contain fluid & free line
- Remove reservoir cap to relieve pressure and allow fluid to flow.
- Loosen hydraulic line fitting to slave with a flare‑nut wrench; have drain pan ready. If the line is a banjo, remove banjo bolt and collect copper washers.
- Plug or cap the line immediately to prevent contamination and fluid loss.

Tool usage note: use a correct-size flare‑nut wrench on the hydraulic nut to avoid rounding; if seized, apply penetrating oil and tap the wrench to break it free — avoid twisting the line.

3) Remove slave cylinder
- Unbolt slave mounting bolts (usually 2). Support the cylinder while removing bolts to prevent dropping fluid.
- Remove cylinder from bellhousing.

4) Prepare and install new slave
- Compare old/new. If new slave has a bench-bleed port, bench‑bleed it before installation: attach small tubing to bleed nipple, submerge in brake fluid, push piston slowly until no bubbles exit.
- Fit new crush washers on banjo/line fittings (always use new washers).
- Mount slave to bellhousing; thread bolts by hand then tighten to manufacturer spec. (Consult service manual. Typical small‑bolt guidance: M8 ≈ 20–35 Nm, M10 ≈ 35–60 Nm — verify exact values.)
- Attach hydraulic line; torque banjo/line bolt to spec. Use flare‑nut wrench while holding fitting steady.

5) Bleed the system
- Fill reservoir to correct level with specified fluid.
- Use pressure bleeder, vacuum bleeder, or manual assistant method:
- Manual: attach clear hose to bleeder screw, submerge end in bottle with fluid. Have assistant press clutch pedal slowly 3–5 times and hold down. Open bleeder until fluid flows and bubbles stop, close screw, repeat until no air and pedal feels firm. Keep reservoir topped.
- After bleeding, tighten bleeder, clean area, replace cap.

6) Final checks
- Check for leaks at all fittings with pedal depressed.
- Start engine (if needed), cycle clutch through gears at low speed to verify engagement and no slipping.
- Road test gently, recheck fluid level & leaks after test.

Common pitfalls — external
- Rounding hydraulic fittings: always use flare‑nut wrench.
- Reusing crush washers causes leaks.
- Not bench-bleeding slave (some designs trap air).
- Spilling brake fluid on paint; clean immediately.
- Not supporting transmission during work — can damage mounts.

Procedure B — Concentric slave cylinder (CSC/internal) — requires transmission removal
1) Preparations (extra care)
- Disconnect battery, chock wheels, raise vehicle, remove driveshaft/propshaft as needed.
- Support engine with engine support bar or jack under oil pan (wood block).
- Support transmission with transmission jack; never let it hang on linkage.

2) Remove external components
- Remove starter motor, electrical connectors, speedo cable/sensors, shift linkage, clutch cable/clutch hydraulics disconnected at master (leave line open to drain, cap).
- Remove transmission mount bolts and crossmember as required.

3) Separate transmission from engine
- Remove bellhousing bolts progressively, support transmission on jack, slide transmission back off input shaft. Use alignment tool or mark orientation.
- Carefully lower transmission clear of clutch assembly.

Tool usage note: transmission jack keeps gearbox aligned and prevents twisting; use wooden block between jack and case to spread load and avoid damage.

4) Remove & replace CSC and associated components
- Access CSC located on back of engine or inside bellhousing. Remove retaining bolts and hydraulic line/banjo.
- Remove old CSC, inspect throwout bearing and clutch disc/pressure plate for wear; replace throwout bearing and clutch if worn — strongly recommended if you had to remove the transmission.
- Install new CSC; use new seal washers on banjo fitting.

5) Reinstall transmission & components
- Use clutch alignment tool to align disc and pressure plate while sliding transmission input shaft into place; be sure splines engage smoothly.
- Torque bellhousing bolts to spec and reinstall starter, linkages, driveshaft.
- Reconnect hydraulic line to CSC, refill reservoir.

6) Bleed system
- Same as Procedure A, but ensure CSC internal piston has been bench‑primed if manufacturer recommends (some concentric units must be pre-filled and bled before fitting).
- Use pressure bleeder for best results with concentric units.

7) Final checks and road test
- Verify pedal feel, check for leaks, recheck torque on fasteners after test drive.

Common pitfalls — CSC/internal
- Failing to support engine/transmission properly — risk of injury and misalignment.
- Not replacing throwout bearing or worn clutch when transmission is removed.
- Not bench-priming a concentric unit — leads to persistent soft pedal.
- Forcing transmission onto a misaligned input shaft; always use alignment tool.
- Reusing old hydraulic washers or bleeder screws.

Bleeding tips & how tools are used
- Flare‑nut wrench: engages more faces of the nut to prevent rounding; use for all hydraulic fittings.
- Pressure bleeder: threads to reservoir, pressurizes fluid to force air out; follow manufacturer instructions, typical 1 bar (15 psi) or per bleeder tool spec.
- Vacuum bleeder: attaches to bleeder nipple to draw fluid/air out; set vacuum per tool spec.
- Manual bleeding (assistant): cheap, effective — ensure assistant holds pedal down while you open/close bleeder quickly to prevent air ingress.
- Bench-bleeding: clamp replacement slave in vise or hold, attach tubing from bleed nipple to reservoir and cycle piston until bubble-free.

Parts to replace (recommended)
- New slave cylinder (correct external or CSC type)
- New crush/banjo washers (always)
- New bleeder screw (recommended)
- Brake/clutch fluid (specified DOT grade)
- Optional: new master cylinder if old is worn/leaking, new throwout bearing/clutch kit if transmission removed, hydraulic line if corroded

Final verification
- No leaks, firm pedal, correct clutch engagement throughout travel.
- Check and re-torque bolts to spec after first test drive.
- Dispose of used fluid and parts per local regulations.

Notes on torque values and specs
- Exact torque values, fluid spec and any special service steps vary by model/year/transmission. Always consult the Isuzu/Hitachi workshop manual or OEM data for exact torques and fluid specification. The ranges given above are for guidance only.

Common troubleshooting after replacement
- Soft spongy pedal: air in system — re-bleed, ensure bench-prime step done.
- Hard pedal: binding linkage or wrong installation/torque.
- Leaks at fitting: damaged/incorrect washers, insufficient torque, cracked line — replace washers and tighten to spec.
- Clutch slipping: contaminated friction surface (fluid on disc) or worn clutch — inspect and replace if necessary.

Done.
rteeqp73

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