Tools & consumables (choose the set that matches which strut you mean)
- For bonnet/engine access gas strut (hood/cover): replacement gas strut(s) with correct length/force and ball-socket or eyelet fittings, small flat screwdriver, snap-ring/retaining-clip pliers (or needle-nose), 10–14 mm sockets/wrenches, torque wrench (if specified), clean rag, small container for hardware, anti-seize or thread lubricant (if required).
- For suspension/MacPherson strut (if fitted to vehicle carrying the Perkins): replacement strut assembly or strut cartridge, coil spring compressor, 19–24 mm sockets and wrenches (sizes vary by machine), breaker bar, torque wrench, jack and heavy-duty jack stands, wheel chocks, pry bar, penetrating oil, rubber mallet, new mounting nuts/bolts or replacement hardware kit.
- PPE: safety glasses, gloves, hearing protection (if using impact tools).

Safety first (do not skip)
- Work on a flat, level surface; block wheels and use appropriate engine/hood supports before removing any strut that supports a heavy cover.
- For gas struts: support the cover with a safety prop or second person before removing the strut. Failure to support can cause the cover to fall and cause injury or damage.
- For suspension struts: never compress a spring without a proper, rated spring compressor. Keep hands/face clear of the coil spring path. Use jack stands — never rely on a hydraulic jack alone.
- Wear eye protection when removing retaining clips and using penetrating oil; old clips can fly off.
- Follow lockout/tagout if working on equipment that can start; disconnect batteries if required.

A. Replacing bonnet/engine-access gas strut (typical Perkins genset/instrument enclosure/tractor hood)
1) Identify correct replacement
- Match extended length, stroke, mounting type (ball-stud, eyelet) and force rating (N). If uncertain, remove old strut and measure extended length and stroke, note fitting type.
2) Prepare and support
- Prop the hood/cover open with a rigid support or have an assistant hold it. DO NOT rely on the old strut.
3) Remove retaining clip
- Locate the socket/ball end. Use a small flat screwdriver or snap-ring pliers to pry up the thin metal retaining clip that holds the socket on the ball stud; do this on both ends if both are to be changed. Tip: clip is at the open end of the plastic socket; do not pry against painted surfaces.
4) Remove old strut
- Once the clip is lifted, pull the socket straight off the ball stud. Catch any dirt/grease with a rag. Place hardware in container.
5) Fit new strut
- If new strut shipped compressed, extend it to its natural position once installed. Press the new socket over the ball stud until it clicks over the ball. Ensure the retaining clip is fully seated. If the strut uses threaded ends, install new nuts/bolts and torque per equipment manual.
6) Test operation
- Slowly lower and raise the hood several times to confirm correct damping and secure fittings. Check for binding or misalignment.
7) Disposal & notes
- Dispose of old gas strut as pressurized gas item per local regulations. If the hood still drops or the new strut seems weak, verify part force rating and ball-stud locations; replace with correct spec.

Common pitfalls (gas strut)
- Not supporting the hood → possible injury/damage.
- Replacing with wrong length/force → improper lift or over-extension causing failure.
- Forcing socket on at the wrong angle → can shear the plastic socket.
- Reusing old retaining clips that are damaged — always replace if deformed.

B. Replacing a suspension strut / MacPherson-style strut assembly (general workshop procedure)
1) Obtain correct replacement
- Either a complete strut assembly (preferred) or cartridge and top mount, plus new nuts/bolts and dust boot/bump stop if worn.
2) Prepare vehicle and safety
- Park on level ground, chock opposite wheels, loosen wheel lug nuts slightly, raise vehicle with jack, support on rated jack stands, remove wheel.
- Disconnect battery if instructed by OEM.
3) Disconnect associated components
- Remove or detach brake hose bracket from the strut, ABS sensor wires, sway bar link, and any steering knuckle tie if attached to the strut lower mounting.
- Apply penetrating oil to lower strut bolts and upper mount nuts.
4) Support the knuckle
- Use a jack under the lower control arm or knuckle to support suspension so it does not drop suddenly when lower bolts are removed.
5) Remove lower mounting bolts
- Remove the lower strut-to-knuckle bolts/nuts. If they are tight, use a breaker bar or impact, but prevent steering knuckle from turning.
6) Remove upper mount nuts
- Open the hood and remove the top strut mounting nuts in the engine bay (three nuts typical). Have someone steady the strut while loosening the top nuts, or hold the strut rod with hex or Allen if needed to prevent rotation (if specified).
7) Remove the strut
- Lower the jack supporting the knuckle and remove the strut assembly/free it from the vehicle.
8) If installing a replacement cartridge only (not a full assembly)
- Use a quality spring compressor to compress the coil spring evenly. Remove the center nut from the strut rod (use appropriate tool to keep rod from spinning or follow OEM instruction). Replace cartridge, top mount, dust boot, bump stop as required. Reassemble and torque top nut per manual.
- IMPORTANT: never attempt to disassemble a strut spring without a proper compressor. Compressed springs store lethal energy.
9) Install new strut/assembly
- Lift new strut into position, fit upper mount studs and loosely install top nuts to hold it. Align and insert lower bolts, hand-tighten.
10) Torque and reassemble
- Torque lower mounting bolts and top nuts to the equipment/vehicle manufacturer specification (consult Perkins equipment manual or vehicle workshop manual). Reconnect brake hose bracket, sway bar link, ABS sensor. Refit wheel, lower vehicle, torque wheel lug nuts to spec.
11) Final checks
- Test drive at low speed to check handling, noises, and alignment. Perform wheel alignment if suspension geometry was disturbed.

How each tool is used (brief)
- Spring compressor: clamps and tightens to compress the coil evenly so the top nut can be removed safely. Always use matched-pair compressors and tighten alternately.
- Torque wrench: set to specified Nm to tighten suspension and hood mounting bolts to correct preload; avoids under/over-tightening.
- Jack and jack stands: raise and safely support vehicle; stands must be rated and placed on solid points.
- Penetrating oil: soak stubborn fasteners to reduce risk of rounding bolts or breaking studs.
- Snap-ring/clip pliers or flat screwdriver: lift the retaining clip on gas strut sockets; use controlled pressure to avoid snapping the clip.

Replacement parts typically required
- Gas struts: exact-match replacement strut(s) (length, stroke, mounting). Replace both sides if paired and one is weak.
- Suspension: full strut assembly (preferred) or strut cartridge, coil spring, top mount/strut bearing, dust boot, bump stop, new mounting nuts/bolts/torque-to-yield fasteners as specified.
- Small hardware: retaining clips, lock washers, anti-seize on threads if recommended.

Common pitfalls (suspension)
- Reusing damaged top mounts or spring seats — causes noise and premature failure.
- Improperly torqued fasteners → loose or overstressed joints.
- Not doing alignment after strut replacement when required → abnormal tire wear and poor handling.
- Using a worn spring compressor or uneven compression → risk of spring release.

Torque & specification note
- Torque values vary by vehicle/equipment. Always use the Perkins engine equipment workshop manual or the host vehicle’s workshop manual for exact fastener torques and parts numbers.

Done.
rteeqp73

Perkins 400 Sieres HP Engine Restore

Perkins 400 Sieres HP Engine Restore

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rteeqp73