1) Safety and preparation
- Kill ignition, let engine cool, set parking brake, wear gloves and dust mask.
Theory: prevents burns and dust inhalation; an intact system must be worked on with engine stationary to check seals later without transients.

2) Identify components
- Locate the air cleaner housing (round/snorkel canister typ. on Toyota 2F), the element inside, the top wingnut/clips, the intake snorkel/trunking to the fender, the carburetor/throttle-body flange, any foam gaskets or rubber boots, and breather/PCV hoses that interface with the housing.
Theory: the housing, element and connections together control flow rate, filtration and the pressure/air‑path the carburetor sees. Problems come from restriction (dirty element), leaks (unmetered air), or contamination (oil/debris).

3) External inspection before disassembly
- Visually check housing for cracks, dents, loose clamps, broken snorkel, crushed inlet, or disconnected hoses. Look for oil wetting, heavy dust, or insect nests.
Theory: visible damage tells whether the fault is mechanical (crack/leak) or contamination (oil from crankcase ventilation). Leaks let unmetered air bypass the filter; cracks can draw in hot/fouled air and noise; oil indicates blow‑by/PCV issues or that the element is saturated and no longer filtering.

4) Remove top and element in order
- Loosen wingnut/clips, lift off lid, remove element carefully to avoid dumping dust into carburetor throat. If element is foam vs paper note construction.
Theory: removing the element exposes the throat and flange interfaces so you can inspect mating surfaces and see how air flows into the carburetor. Doing this safely prevents contamination of the engine.

5) Inspect element and housing internals
- Hold up the element to light (paper): if you can’t see light through most of it, it’s clogged and must be replaced. For foam, if brittle or saturated with oil, replace. Clean inside of housing with compressed air blown outwards or vacuum; remove debris, leaves, or mud. Check seal surfaces for corrosion or gouges.
Theory: a clogged element reduces airflow (restriction) producing poor throttle response, power loss and often a rich running condition because fuel metering is unchanged while air is reduced. Debris in housing can be ingested by engine when pressure pulses occur; damaged seals allow air bypass.

6) Inspect and test seals, flanges and hoses
- Check gasket/foam between housing and carburetor for compression set or missing material; inspect rubber intake boot and clamps for cracks or looseness; test snorkel for holes/rot. For suspected leaks after reassembly use a vacuum gauge or spray test (carb cleaner/prop cleaner around joints while idling looking for RPM change).
Theory: a leaking seal or cracked snorkel admits unmetered air downstream of the element or around the meter, changing the air/fuel ratio. In a carbureted 2F, unmetered air at the carb throat upsets venturi vacuum and idle circuits, causing unstable idle, lean stumble or surging.

7) Repair or replace faulty parts (in order)
- Replace the element if clogged or oil-saturated.
- Replace foam or rubber gaskets and cracked boots; replace clamps.
- Repair small metal housing cracks by welding or soldering; for plastic parts use epoxy rated for intake temps or replace entire housing if large damage.
- If oil-contaminated, clean housing and element area, and inspect/repair PCV/breather circuits (replace PCV valve/hose).
Theory: new element restores correct flow and filtration; new gaskets restore sealed airflow paths so the carb sees only metered air; fixing cracks prevents bypass and restores designed resonant/noise-damping properties. Repairing oil ingress addresses the root cause (blow-by/PCV) so the new element won’t quickly re-soil.

8) Reassembly (in order)
- Re-seat the element correctly, ensure gasket seating on the carb flange, position snorkel and hoses, tighten clamps/wingnut uniformly to manufacturer snugness (hand-tight plus firm). Reconnect any breather hoses.
Theory: correct seating ensures the designed flow path and pressure drops occur. Uneven or loose reassembly recreates leaks or causes element deformation reducing life.

9) Functional checks and tuning
- Start engine and listen for vacuum leaks (hissing). Check idle stability and throttle response. If carb adjustments were previously fine but symptoms persist, re-check for leaks with a spray test or vacuum gauge. If output still poor after restoring airflow, inspect ignition and fuel systems.
Theory: restoring clean, sealed intake flow should return the engine to normal air/fuel balance; persistent symptoms indicate either the intake wasn’t fully restored (residual leak/restriction) or separate faults (ignition, fuel pressure, valves).

10) How each repair fixes faults — summary
- Replacing a clogged element: removes restriction, restores proper airflow so fuel metering matches designed mixture — improves power, throttle response, and economy.
- Replacing seals/boots/clamps: eliminates unmetered bypass air so idle and mixture circuits are accurate — stops surging, lean idle or stumbling.
- Repairing cracks/snorkel and cleaning housing: prevents ingestion of unfiltered contaminants and restores the designed airflow path and resonances — reduces wear, noise and performance loss.
- Cleaning/remedying oil contamination and fixing PCV: prevents element saturation (which causes severe restriction and oil draw-in) and removes a recurring source of contamination — prolongs element life and keeps filtration effective.

Safety and final note
- Dispose of used elements properly. If you welded the housing, ensure no warping that prevents a good seal. After any repair, re-check for leaks and re-evaluate leaning/rich symptoms with a simple idle/drive test.

Done.
rteeqp73

+P Mosley Motors 2F testing

1972 Toyota FJ40. Holley Sniper, 1985 2F

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Tool & safety summary (read before starting)
- Tools: jack stands, floor jack, socket/ratchet set, torque wrench, spring compressor (safe, bench or strut-compatible), pry bar, hammer, penetrating oil, screwdriver, pliers. Optional: impact gun, work gloves, eye protection.
- Parts: correct upper strut mount (and bearing if separate), new top nut and any washers, strut mount-to-body hardware if corroded.
- Safety: always support vehicle on stands; never rely on jack. Never remove the strut top nut with the spring uncompressed. Follow factory torque specs and alignment shop afterward.

Theory (high level, concise)
- What the upper strut mount does: it secures the top of the strut assembly to the body, transmits vertical load from spring/strut into chassis, isolates vibration/noise, and (on front struts) contains a thrust bearing or bearing plate that allows the strut to rotate when you steer. A failed mount causes noise, vibration, steering stiffness or play, and can change suspension geometry (camber/caster) and tire wear.
- Why you must compress the spring: the coil spring is under large preload. Removing the top nut without compressing the spring will release stored energy violently. The compressor transfers that energy safely so you can disassemble the top mount.
- How replacement fixes the fault: new rubber/damping restores isolation, new bearing restores smooth rotation and corrects steering feel, solid mount restores correct top-of-strut location so camber/caster geometry returns to spec and eliminates play/noise.

Step-by-step procedure (in order) with theory notes
1) Preparation
- Park on level surface, chock rear wheels, set parking brake. Loosen front wheel lug nuts slightly.
- Theory: safe, stable vehicle prevents accidents and eases removal.

2) Raise and secure vehicle
- Jack vehicle at manufacturer jacking point, support on jack stands. Remove wheel.
- Theory: full support lets you work on suspension without risk.

3) Access and disconnect ancillary parts
- Remove or disconnect sway bar end link from knuckle, ABS sensor bracket, brake line bracket from strut if attached, and any splash shields that block access.
- Theory: frees the knuckle so strut can be separated without stressing attached parts.

4) Separate strut from steering knuckle
- Support the knuckle (jack or stand) to keep hub/brake lines unstrained. Remove the lower strut-to-knuckle bolts/nuts. If fitted, loosen camber/caster eccentric bolts only if necessary and note position.
- Theory: separating the lower mount frees the strut so it can be removed intact. Supporting the knuckle prevents damage to ball joints/lines.

5) Remove upper strut-to-body fasteners
- Open the hood (or trunk for rear) and remove the three (usually) nuts holding the strut tower to the body. Have someone support the strut or hold it from below as you remove the last nut.
- Theory: the strut is now free and can be lowered out of the vehicle.

6) Remove the strut assembly
- Carefully lower the entire strut assembly out of the car.
- Theory: remove as one unit so the spring remains compressed by the strut; you will compress it further on a stable bench or with an in-vehicle compressor if necessary.

7) Compress the spring safely
- Use a proper spring compressor (external clamps or a strut compressor) and evenly compress the spring until the strut top is free of spring force. Confirm spring is secure before loosening any top nut. Always follow compressor instructions.
- Theory: compressor holds spring energy so you can disassemble the top safely.

8) Disassemble strut top
- Remove the top nut, then remove the top mount, bearing, rubber isolator, and any washers. Inspect strut rod for damage and strut body for bushing/corrosion.
- Theory: replacing the mount and bearing removes worn elements that cause noise and play.

9) Inspect and replace parts
- Check bearing for roughness or play; check rubber for cracks/flattening; check the strut shaft for scoring or oil leakage (strut failure). Replace the mount and bearing (and strut if leaking or oiling).
- Theory: you must replace all worn components to restore function; a bad strut with new mount will still transmit poor damping.

10) Reassemble with new mount
- Position new bearing/mount and any washers in the correct orientation. Tighten the top nut to hold assembly together but do not fully release spring until assembly is secure. Some mounts have a locating tab or alignment mark—ensure correct orientation.
- Theory: correct assembly ensures bearing is centered and rubber isolator functions under load.

11) Slowly decompress spring and seat mount
- Gradually release the compressor so the spring seats into the new mount. Ensure the spring perch and mount align and the strut top is flush.
- Theory: correct seating transfers spring load through the mount as designed.

12) Reinstall strut into vehicle
- Lift strut back into strut tower, partially thread upper nuts to hold it. Reattach lower strut-to-knuckle bolts but don’t fully torque until vehicle is at ride height (or follow manufacturer order). Reattach sway bar link, brake line brackets, ABS sensor.
- Theory: final torquing at ride height or per factory sequence avoids preloading bushings or causing binding.

13) Torque all fasteners to spec
- Torque the upper nuts and lower bolts to factory specifications. Replace any worn bolts/nuts. If camber/caster bolts were disturbed, restore their approximate position or mark before replacing.
- Theory: correct torque prevents loosening and maintains geometry.

14) Wheel reinstall and lower vehicle
- Reinstall wheel, torque lug nuts to spec, lower vehicle off stands, torque wheel nuts properly.
- Theory: finalizes assembly under normal loading.

15) Post-repair checks
- Test drive to confirm noise gone, steering feel restored. Check for new noises. Get a professional alignment after replacing strut mounts (recommended).
- Theory: replacement restores suspension geometry and rotation behavior; alignment corrects any camber/caster changes from removing the strut.

How the repair fixes the common faults (concise)
- Noise (clunk, knock, squeak): worn rubber or separated mount allows metal-on-metal contact and excessive movement. New mount restores damping and eliminates contact.
- Steering stiffness/grinding or wandering: worn bearing prevents smooth rotation of the strut as you steer; new bearing restores low-friction rotation and correct steering feel.
- Steering play or looseness, uneven tire wear: a collapsed/loose mount lets the top of the strut move under load changing camber; replacing it returns the top location and reduces geometry shifts (alignment still required).
- Vibration transmitted to cabin: deteriorated rubber loses isolation; replacement restores elastic isolation.

Quick warnings & tips
- Do not remove the top nut with spring uncompressed. Fatal hazard.
- Replace mounts in axle pairs (both sides) if one is old to keep symmetric behavior.
- If the strut is leaking or shaft is damaged, replace the strut assembly, not just the mount.
- Always check/restore wheel alignment after suspension work.

End.
rteeqp73