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Toyota 2H and 12H-T digital engine factory workshop and repair manual

Tools & consumables
- Vehicle jack + quality jackstands (rated) and wheel chocks.
- 3/8" & 1/2" drive ratchets, breaker bar, extensions.
- Metric socket set (8–24mm) and deep sockets for exhaust nuts.
- Torque wrench (range covering 10–120 Nm).
- Oxygen (O2) sensor socket (22mm/long-socket style) or 7/8" O2 socket.
- Penetrating oil (PB Blaster, Kroil, etc.).
- Reciprocating saw with bi-metal blades or angle grinder + cutoff wheel (use goggles/face shield).
- Wire brush / flap disc / grinding wheel.
- Exhaust hanger removal tool or pry bar & pliers.
- MIG welder or oxy-acetylene + welding PPE if welding in new section.
- Clamps and exhaust band clamps (if not bolting/flanging).
- New exhaust gaskets (flange gaskets) and replacement studs/nuts/bolts as required.
- New catalytic converter (OEM or EPA/CARB–compliant aftermarket for your region).
- Anti-seize compound (only on sensor threads; avoid sensor tip).
- High-temp silicone or exhaust paste (if specified).
- Gloves, safety glasses, hearing protection, respirator if cutting/welding.
- Battery disconnect tool or wrench.

Safety precautions (must do)
- Work on a cool engine/exhaust. Hot metal will burn and warp.
- Park on level ground, chock wheels, set parking brake.
- Support vehicle with jackstands on solid points — NEVER rely on a jack alone.
- Disconnect negative battery cable before cutting/welding to avoid electrical damage/fire.
- Ventilate area when cutting/welding; have a fire extinguisher nearby.
- Wear gloves, eye protection, respirator when cutting/grinding; protect O2 sensors from sparks/heat.
- Use proper welding PPE and grounding if welding under the vehicle.

Parts required
- Correct catalytic converter assembly for Toyota 2H / 12H-T application (check part number or fitment).
- Exhaust manifold/cat flange gaskets.
- Replacement bolts/studs/nuts/clamps (stainless preferred) — old studs often corrode and snap.
- O2 sensor(s) if seized or damaged; new sensors often recommended if old and >100k km.
- Heat shield clips/hardware if rusted.

Step-by-step procedure
1) Preparation
- Park, chock wheels, cool engine fully. Disconnect negative battery terminal.
- Raise vehicle and support securely on jackstands. Ensure you have room to work under vehicle.

2) Locate catalytic converter & heat shields
- Identify converter location (downstream of manifold / midpipe); remove heat shields using appropriate sockets.

3) Remove O2 sensors
- Spray penetrating oil on O2 sensor threads and flange nuts. Let soak 10–15 minutes.
- Use O2 sensor socket to remove sensors. Tag/mark wiring if multiple sensors. Protect sensor tips from sparks/heat; if cutting underneath, remove sensors first.

How tool is used: O2 sensor socket fits over sensor and hex; use breaker bar or ratchet to loosen without damaging wire.

4) Free seized flange nuts/studs
- Apply penetrating oil to flange bolts/studs; allow soak time. Use breaker bar to break torque. If studs spin or bolt heads round, use vice grips or extractors or cut studs and replace.
- If bolts are welded or extremely corroded, heat with a torch to break rust, then apply impact.

How tool is used: Breaker bar applies long-leverage force for seized nuts. Heat expands rust to free threads; use sparingly and safely.

5) If bolted: unbolt flanges and remove converter
- Once flange nuts/bolts are loose, support converter and remove. Replace flange gaskets.

6) If welded: cut out old converter
- Mark cut lines just outside the converter body where existing pipe is sound. Use reciprocating saw with bi-metal blade or cutoff wheel to cut pipe. Cut straight to preserve pipe for clamping or welding. Remove any hangers or hangers’ rubber isolators.

How tool is used: Recip saw gives controlled cuts; use steady pressure and keep blade straight. Cut both upstream and downstream ends so old converter drops free.

7) Clean mating surfaces
- Wire-brush flange faces or pipe ends to remove carbon and rust. Ensure clean, flat mating area. Replace studs if damaged.

8) Fit new converter
- Confirm flow direction arrow on new converter matches exhaust flow.
- If bolt-in: fit new gaskets, align flanges, insert bolts/nuts and hand-tighten. Then torque to spec (see notes below).
- If slip-in or clamped: slide new converter into position, use new clamps or weld. If welding, clamp in place, tack weld, check alignment, then complete weld around circumference.

How tool is used: Clamps hold pipes tight while torquing or welding. MIG welder: tack at 3–4 points, then stitch weld around; grind as required.

9) Reinstall O2 sensors
- Apply a small amount of anti-seize to sensor threads (avoid sensor tip). Thread sensors in by hand to avoid cross-threading. Torque to sensor spec (typically 25–40 Nm — check sensor/manufacturer spec).

10) Reinstall heat shields and hangers
- Reattach hangers and heat shields; replace rusted clips or bolts.

11) Final torque & checks
- Torque all flange bolts to factory spec from Toyota manual. If factory spec unavailable, typical exhaust flange bolt torque ranges:
- M10 bolts ≈ 35–50 Nm
- M12 bolts ≈ 60–80 Nm
(These are approximate; confirm with service manual.)
- Lower vehicle, reconnect battery.

12) Test
- Start engine, let idle, inspect for exhaust leaks (listen for leaks and feel for escaping gas near joints — be careful of hot parts). Rev engine and recheck. Clear any stored codes; monitor for check-engine light and address O2 sensor codes if present.

Common pitfalls & how to avoid them
- Removing O2 sensors after cutting/welding: They get damaged by sparks/heat — remove first and protect.
- Rounded or broken studs: Soak with penetrating oil, heat, and use correct extractor tools. Keep spare studs on hand.
- Incorrect converter orientation or wrong part: Check flow arrow and part number. A wrong-length converter causes misalignment and leaks.
- Poor sealing: Replace gaskets and use new hardware. Don’t rely on old crushed gaskets.
- Overheating O2 sensor with anti-seize on sensor tip: Only apply to threads, not the sensor element.
- Welding on vehicle without disconnecting battery: Can damage electronics — disconnect battery and cover sensitive components.
- Cutting in wrong place and shortening/weakening pipes: Mark cuts, preserve sufficient pipe for flanges or clamps.
- Skipping torque specs: Under- or over-torquing causes leaks or damaged studs. Use torque wrench.
- Illegal replacements: Don’t install a straight pipe or non-compliant converter if emissions laws require a catalytic converter. Use EPA/CARB-compliant parts where required.

Disposal & legal
- Catalytic converters contain precious metals and are regulated — recycle old unit through an authorized recycler or dealer. Keep paperwork if required by local law.

Final notes
- If exhaust studs are corroded badly, replace with high-temp stainless studs and nuts.
- If you are not comfortable cutting/welding under the vehicle or with potential broken studs, have a professional exhaust shop perform the replacement to avoid damage.

That’s the full procedure — follow factory torque specs and use the correct replacement converter/gaskets for your Toyota 2H / 12H-T application.
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